The Hazzard’s high-speed compression circuit is an adjustable blow-off valve that momentarily relieves the pressure building up inside the shock upon a harsh impact, instantly providing additional plushness then increasing resistance as needed. The adjustment controls the level of force (threshold) required to open the blow-off valve upon fast movements of the shock’s shaft (high velocity) which can be caused by square-edged impacts, roots, rocks, potholes, vibrations or brake bumps. When set properly, the high-speed compression circuit allows the wheel to effectively absorb all impacts without bottoming out or using too much travel.

Start with the adjustment in the fully open position (completely turned counterclockwise) and take a test ride. If you tend to bottom out often or use too much travel upon impacts or repetitive bumps (but your sag is set appropritely), add more resistance by turning the adjuster one click (approximately 1/8th of a turn) at a time until you bottom out only once in a while upon major impacts.

To increase the high-speed compression threshold, thus increasing the level of force to activate the blow-off valve, turn the silver high-speed compression adjuster knob clockwise (screw in). There are appoximately 14 clicks (two complete rotations) of high-speed compression adjustment. When the high-speed setting gets too firm, the shock will not be able to

effectively absorb impacts, thus making the ride harsh.

To reduce the high-speed compression threshold, thus decreasing the level of force to activate the blow-off valve, turn the silver high-speed compression adjuster knob counterclockwise (unscrew). When the high-speed setting gets too soft, the suspension will use more travel upon impacts and become more prone to bottoming out.

The low-speed compression adjustment controls the damping level (resistance) for slow movement of the shock’s shaft (low velocity), such as under pedaling, when cornering and when preloading the suspension for jumping. The low-speed compression damping level provides the overall stiffness feeling of the bike’s suspension, making it either plush and comfortable or firm and fast rolling.

You should start in the middle of the adjustment range (approximately 15 clicks back from max). To adjust properly, turn the adjuster one click at a time and take a test ride. The adjustment is more sensitive towards the max position (firmest). When the low-speed setting gets too firm, the shock absorber will not be able to absorb low-velocity impacts and weight transfers, thus making the ride harsher. When the low-speed setting gets too soft, the shock absorber will be too active, wallowing more under pedaling and more prone to bottoming out.

To increase low-speed compression damping, thus making the suspension stiffer, turn the black lowspeed compression adjuster knob clockwise (screw in). There are approximately 30 clicks of low-speed compression adjustment. To reduce the low-speed compression damping, thus making the suspension softer, turn the low-speed compression adjuster counterclockwise (unscrew).

The rebound adjustment controls the speed with which the shock will return to its initial extended state after being compressed by an impact. If the rebound adjustment properly set, the rear wheel should keep maximum traction by tracking the ground without catapulting the rider off the bike.

The rebound adjustment on the Hazzard uses requires a 3mm hex key. You should start in the middle of the adjustment range, one complete rotation counterclockwise from max rebound (fully in). To adjust properly, turn the adjustment appoximately 1/8 of a turn at a time and take a test ride. The adjustment is more sensitive towards the fully in position (slowest). When the rebound setting gets too slow, the shock absorber will not have time to returne to its initial position when a series of close bumps is encountered. In this case, the bike will run out of travel (packing), possibly bottoming out, and may give the impression of the compression being too soft. When the rebound adjustment is set too fast, the rear end of the bike will kick and move from side to side after hitting a series of close bumps and the rider will feel catapulted by the bike.

To increase the rebound damping, thus making the shock return slower upon an impact, turn the rebound adjustement clockwise (screw in). To reduce the rebound damping, thus making the shock return faster upon an impact, turn the rebound adjuster knob counterclockwise (unscrew). The rebound adjustment range is appoximtely two complete rotations.

If you cannot achieve appropriate rebound speeds, a change to the internal shimstack may be needed. Contact MRP if this is the case.

The Hazzard features the Shred Lever, a two-position switch that quickly boosts low-speed compression damping significantly in the “on” position. Between the shock body and reservoir (piggyback), the Hazzard has two available flowpaths for the damping oil. The Shred Lever allows you to toggle between them. In the “on” position (when the lever pushed towards a position parallel with body and reservoir), oil must pass through an additional shim that provides firm resistance to low-speed compression events.

The Shred Lever is best utilized to improve efficiency by reducing pedal bob and wasted energy on long, smooth climbs or particularly tame terrain. Although there is no risk of damage if the shock is ridden aggressively while the feature is “on,” it will result in a harsh ride over very rough terrain. For that reason, we do not recommend you descend while the Shred Lever is on.

MRP uses 1/2” (12.7mm) DU bushings on both ends, which is compatible with the original mounting hardware found on many recent mountain bikes. Ordering new hardware with your shock is recommended as this will ensure you have the proper hardware for your shock and bike. If you contact MRP or your local MRP dealer, we can verify if you can use the original mounting hardware that came with your bike. Before installing your mounting hardware check the direction the piggyback should face on your frame. This is important so as not to damage your frame, and also for frames that require different mounting hardware sizes for each end of the shock. For three-piece hardware, start with the steel sleeve and insert it through (the correct side) the bushing in the eyelet and center it on the eyelet as best as you can. Take the frame spacers and insert the provided seals into the flanged side of the spacer. With the seals installed slide the frame spacers over the sleeve so that the seal rests against the eyelet of the

To remove the spring, start by turning the preload adjuster ring counterclockwise to remove all preload until the spring become loose. Push down on the spring retainer clip then slide it off the shock, being careful not to damage the shaft with the sharp sides of the spring clip. Once the clip is removed, you can slide the spring off the shock.

MRP’S REBOUND VALVING IS TUNED IN SUCH A WAY THAT IT PROVIDES MORE DAMPING (SLOWER RETURN) WHEN DEEP WITHIN THE STROKE TO PREVENT THE RIDER FROM BEING CATAPULTED OFF THE BIKE UPON MAJOR IMPACTS.

To remove the spring, start by turning the preload adjuster ring counterclockwise to remove all preload until the spring become loose. Push down on the spring retainer clip then slide it off the shock, being careful not to damage the shaft with the sharp sides of the spring clip. Once the clip is removed, you can slide the spring off the shock.